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Here are the notes on places I've been and enjoyed. First some travel tips for newbies, and then personal recommendations for where to stay, eat and see in each place we've been lucky enough to visit, both in the US and abroad(and yes, finally, I'm including my hometown St. Louis. Funny how you forget the obvious).
So, here are my thoughts on travel. If you're hesitant about traveling to a new place,
a tour is a great way to get an overview and learn
where you want to return. If you are in a tour
group, consider getting a bit away once or twice
to see people you normally wouldn't on the bus.
In general, in big cities I've found that the
on-off bus tours are great for getting a lay of
the land, especially the double-deckers, if you
enjoy architecture. Even if we've been to a city
before, we often take them just to enjoy an overview.
Anybody with great(reasonably priced) recommendations
of their own, let me know. I'll try and include
them: For other info on Ireland or England, I
highly recommend their Tourist Boards. I have
a few links on my site, but the net is a great
place to shop for places to stay. If you have
any questions, comments or recommendations, email
me at eileendreyer@eileendreyer.com
.
Click
here to check out my favorite places to travel
in the US.
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Mayan ruins: Belize |
Amazon headwaters:
Bolivia |
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*
Prepare yourself physically...and mentally
+ read books on the area. Find out the local
customs. Learn about what you're going to see.
It makes it much more fun
+ prevent jet lag with common sense--the most
important: The minute you get on the plane,
set your watch to the New time zone, and behave
accordingly
+ read books on the area. Find out the local
customs(for instance, women don't wear shorts
in Italy. And never in church) and laws. It
makes it much more fun
*
Don't be a tourist...be a visiting friend
+ the point to go is to experience something
new. You Can always get McDonald's down the
street
+ meet the locals. Most of the world speaks
at least a little English. Many are as curious
about you as you are About them.
*
Take a good pocket language book and learn a few
words well
+ Please...Thank you
+ Water + Toilet
+ Excuse me
You can't believe how delighted people are that
you try their language. It's a real sign of respect.
P.S. bring your own toilet paper. Nobody is as meticulous
About that kind of comfort as Americans (refer to
things to pack)
*
Observe...be a student
* TRY IT...Be adventuresome
* Get off the Beaten
Path. Even on a guided tour you have time to yourself.
Plan your own tour.
* Don't overlook
those doubledecker bus tours of cities. It's the
best way to see architecture and get around
* Wear Sturdy Shoes...Be
prepared to walk
+ FYI: You are much safer and get a better
response from people if you don't wear the "American
Uniform" of Ballcap, sunglasses and white tennis
shoes. Believe me. People see you differently
if you don't wear especially the tennis shoes.
*
Practice packing for all trips in a single roll-on
suitcase
+ Unless you're doing formal dinners
every night, you really don't need more than a
roll-on and a carry on. There are Cheap laundries
everywhere. So pack what you need and then Take
out half.
+ Things we always pack:
- Toilet paper
- Medications in identifying bottles
- Photocopies of front page of passport (leave
a copy at home in case of loss) If you're
in a hotel with a safe, leave the passport
there and carry the photocopy
- plug and currency adaptors(any travel store
has the Appropriate ones)
- Small language book
- small book or copies of info about what
we want to see
- credit cards. The common thought is to use
credit when Possible. The exchange rate is
lower. + get local cash at airports and banks
for best rates + Don't bring bills larger
than $50. Small banks don't Accept them for
exchange.
- sweetener. The US is the only place that
offers it.
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OKAY NOW, HERE ARE MY PARTICULAR FAVORITES:
I'm prejudiced. Ireland is where God lives for
me. I love the beauty of the country, the sound
of the sea, the soft northern light, the skirling
music and raucous sport, the history and the crac
(you have to ask an Irishman about that). One
of the most important things to know about going
to Ireland, though, is that fully half of the
experience of visiting is the people themselves.
I've never met a kinder, more friendly, more hospitable
people anywhere in the world. My husband swears
that as children they were warned that if they
failed to give directions the fairies would get
them. It's why I always stay in B&Bs, and why
I learned to stay in B&Bs everywhere I go. Not
only does that provide a more personal atmosphere,
it inspires unexpected benefits(also, because
of the hot economy, a lot of hospitality workers
in the cities are from Eastern Europe. Still nice,
but it's not the local flavor).
Always ask the homeowner for local recommendations.
They're more than happy to help. In fact, once
in Ireland when I asked a lovely lady where the
local music pub was, she called her husband in
from blowing tree stumps so they could take me
themselves. Just remember to respect their home
and the privacy of your hosts(kitchens must be
invited into). And be prepared to be surprised
and delighted.
If you haven't been, get a book like Inside Ireland.
Decide what you want to see and how you want to
get there. And most importantly, remember that
Irish roads aren't like ours(and it's more than
driving on the wrong side of the street). The
country may be the size of Illinois, but the average
speed is about 35mph. And that's not counting
the times you stop for photos, or a beer, or to
ask directions(make a point of it. It's an experience
all to itself).
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| RECOMMENDED EATS AND SLEEPS |
Ireland (by region)
(phone prefix from
US 011-353 Phoning in country, begin number
with 0 ) |
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SLEA HEAD, DINGLE PENINSULA |
HORSERACING ON DINGLE STRAND |
Dublin B&Bs:
Moat Lodge
Lucan, Dublin County
01-6241584 www.moatlodge.ie
(west of the city on bus lines, easy to get to
and from.. Love little village with a great pub,
Courtney's Highest recommendation)
Mrs. Griffin Aaron Court
133 Merrion Road
Ballsbridge, Dublin
1-260-2631
(a bit pricy, but worth it--near south of city)
Slievenamon
302 Clontarf Road, Dublin
018331025
West:
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Restaurants |
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(Connemara, Yeats
Country)
Brid and Marc Torrades
Glebe House
Collooney, Co Sligo
71-67787
(a bit pricy, but historic, easy access
to beautiful Yeats country)
* also
has an excellent small restaurant specializing
in fresh local produce
Markree Castle
Collooney, Co Sligo
www.markreecastle.ie
(If you want a treat. Pricey but well worth
it. 17th century Castle with all modern
conveniences, that's a home. Not a conference
center.
Mrs. Breege Gavin
Lockavrea View Farmhouse
Maam, Co. Galway
92-48040
(beautiful Connemara valley, close to where
the Quiet Man was filmed,within driving
distance of the coast. So popular, film
companies stay here)
Mrs. Barron
Newpark House
Ennis, Co Clare
065-6821233
(a bit pricier, but check it out: http://www.celtic-vacances.co.uk/sh-cent/e7.htm)
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Fiddler's Creek
Rockwood Parade
Sligo town
(great food and location)
Mitchell's Seafood Restaurant
Market Street, Clifden, Co. Galway
Burke's Pub
Clonbur, Co. Galway
(great place. A music town with a Great
little gift shop. Mountain View)
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| IF YOU LOVE
TRADITIONAL MUSIC, MY FAVORITE TOWNS FOR IT
ARE DOOLIN IN CO. CLARE. ANY PUB WILL HAVE
FABULOUS SESSIONS. OR DINGLE TOWN. ESPECIALLY
AN DROICHAD BEAG or O'Flaherty's Check the
scene at http://www.irishmusicbars.com/ |
Shannonside
(within short drive of Shannon Airport, Burren,
great golf, if you're into that kind of thing)
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Restaurants |
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Beechgrove Farmhouse
Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co. Clare
Breda Conheady
61-368140
(website through Irish Farmhouse Holidays)
(lovely small farm only 10 min. from Shannon
above Limerick so you miss traffic. Lovely
hospitality)
Clonunion House B&B
Mrs. Fitzgerald
Limerick Road , Adare, Limerick Co
61-396657
(website through Irish Farmhouse Holidays)
(Georgian beauty close to picturesque Adare
village. Lovely hospitality)
Mrs. Nuala Duffy
Shanagarry
Killarney Road, Newcastle
West Limerick
066-56254
(about thirty minutes from Shannon. I can't
recommend this couple more highly for hospitality)
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Abbey Tavern
Quin, Co. Clare
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Southwest:
(The Ring of Kerry, Dingle Peninsula, Killarney,
Cork)
| Ring
of Kerry |
Restaurant |
Mrs. Moran
Moran's Farmhouse
Bunavalla, Caherdaniel
Ring of Kerry
66-75208
(Spectagular site overlooking Derrynane Bay,
fabulous hostss) |
Teacher's Restaurant
Caherdaniel Ring of Kerry
66-94-75025 |
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| Dingle
Peninsula |
Restaurants: |
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Mrs. Eileen Hurley
Hurley's Farmhouse
Dingle Peninsula
66-64284
(another great hostess)
Slea Head Farmhouse
Slea Head, Dingle, Kerry Co.
66-9156391 www.sleaheadfarm.com
(Away from town, but the scenery is unparalleled.
And the Firtears lovely()
(A bit of luxury)
Mrs Sile (Sheila) O'Gorman
O'Gorman's
Glaise Bheag, Ballydavid
Dingle Peninsula (co. Kerry)
66-55162
(another great view, 20 minutes from Dingle
Town)
Mrs. Angela de Mordha
de Mordha Accomodation
Dunquin, Dingle Peninsula (Kerry)
66-9156276
ardaingeal@hotmail.com
(Mr. DeMordha runs the Blasket Center. A
real Gaeltacht house)
Mrs. Alice Hannaffin
An Speice
Ballyferriter, Dingle Peninsula|
66-56254
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O'Gorman's Cafe me Mara
(a great scenic restaurant)
(See B&B)
The Old Pier
Ballydavid, Dingle Peninsula
(Very near the O'Gorman's: The owner is
a real character.)
Stonehouse
Fahan, Ventry
Dingle Peninsula
66-8159970
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| Killarney |
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Gleann Fia Country House
Killarney, Co. Kerry
www.gleannfia.com
(in a too-touristy town, a lovely rest in
beautiful gardens just far enough outside
of town for quiet. Great center for touring.)
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Bricin
26 High Street
Killarney, Co. Kerry
www.bricin.com
(great 2nd story wine bar)
Gaby's Seafood
High Street
Killarney
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SCOTLAND:
We took two trips to Scotland.
One that I call the Flying American Tour, or Clans,
Castles and Cathedrals--everything but Edinburgh
and Glasgow. It's another country I loved driving
through. Wide roads, lots of space, amazing scenery.
It's especially fun to walk into a pub and ask
what the owner's favorite whiskey is.
You'll get everybody talking.
And drink some great whiskey.
The second trip we took,
we only went to Edinburgh. I found it much easier
to take plane or train in and then rely on public
transport. It's a very walkable city(although
I swear it's all uphill), but your B&B, hotel
or local information office has a handy 3-day
pass on buses and trains, and entry to most of
the major attractions. And when you go, make sure
you go on the Mary King's Close tour. It really
shows what the old town used to be like. And it's
haunted. A little girl is down there, and tourists
all bring her little stuffed toys.
(Telephone access to Scotland
and England 011-44)
| Edinburgh |
Restaurants |
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53 Frederick Street
(the address is the same)
www.53frederickstreet.com
(a real find! AN 1820 townhouse in New Town,
decorated in period detail. Warning: rooms
are on the fourth floor with no elevators.
Well worth it, though)
Mr. John Franchi
The Manse Innes Street
Plockton (at the bridge to Isle of Skye)
1599-544442
Breadelbane House
Killen, Perthshire
(very near Sterling)
15-67820134
Craigadom
Castle Douglas, Scotland
(a wonderful, affordable country house)
1556-650233
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Wok and Wine
57 Frederick Street
www.wokandwine.com
Daniel's
88 Commercial Street
Leith (a 15 minute bus ride to The Firth)
797-439-6889
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| ENGLAND:
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| England is
just too diverse to comment on in one place.
I've been lucky enough to see a lot of it.
The good news is that the train service is
amazing. The bad news is that it is also expensive.
There is also an excellent network of bus
lines. Or you can drive everywhere but London.
They actually charge tax for people to even
drive through certain areas. But the public
transport there is fabulous, and taxis great
fun, and I think reasonable. Remember that
when visiting, especially London, that August
is the European vacation month, and everybody
has come to see the same things you have(I
was once caught in a Japanese tour at Westminster
Abbey, and unable to even touch ground for
twenty minutes). London is another city I
highly recommend taking the double-decker
bus tour. And don't miss those historical
museums, like the Naval Museum. The Brits
really know how to put a museum together. |
Howarth
(Bronte Country) |
Down the road from Jervaux Abbey |
Mid-North
Mrs. Judy Smith
The Old Vicarage
Darley, N. Yorkshire
(near Harrogate)
01423 780526
www.darley33.freeserve.co.uk
(award-winning village and house garden in the
exquisite Yorkshire dales)
Chris Bell
Manor House Farm
Uttoxeter, Derbyshire
018895904
(real Jacobean farmhouse complete with eccentrics!)
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ITALY:
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I'm going to recommend a town. Recently I got
to go to the International Women's Fiction Festival
in Matera, Italy, and I fell in love. With the
whole town. It's a bit out of the way, it's hugely
historic(the second oldest inhabited site in the
world), and it's the site where Mel filmed The
Passion of the Christ. Honest. His set decorator
must have taken one look at this place and passed
out.
The town is quaint, out of
the way, slow moving, and beautiful, the people
warm and friendly. Every night the population
dresses up and walks the piazzas. Two nights while
we were there, they had saints' processions in
the middle of town(that's Cosmos and Damien up
there on those shoulders). The only caveat? There
is one cab in town. You walk everywhere, and it's
very hilly.
I stayed at a lovely 18th century
palazzo on the hill, but there are many places
to stay and eat. Stop by if you're close. You
won't regret it.
Casino Ridola
Via Morelli, 13
39-0835318811
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PRAGUE:
My husband travels to Prague on business and has
been begging me to join him. I finally did, and
have to say I'm really glad I did. This is an
amazing city. It's the only major European city
to not be bombed during World War II, which means
the historic center is intact. And this represents
more than a thousand years of history. I recommend
you stay down in the historic area. We stayed
in the Male Strana, beneath the castle, and the
area is quaint, packed in great little pubs and
restaurants, and steeped in history. If you like
stained glass, don't miss St. Vitus Cathedral.
If you like classical music, you can't swing a
dead cat without hitting a historic palace or
church that isn't playing something each night.
My only caveat is to familiarize yourself with
the language before going, especially if you want
to use trains or subways while you're there. It's
very intimidating for a westerner, but after about
a day, I felt much more comfortable about it.
And most Czechs are fluent enough in English to
communicate. Also, if you try out at least the
basics, Please, thank you, etc. the locals are
delighted, and will even help you with pronunciation(it
became a game with me). Just don't expect a whole
lot of green veggies at the restaurants.

Recommendations:
Hotel Appia Residence
Sporkova 3
(Right in the middle of the historic area, a 14th
century convent beautifully restored. Arranges
taxi from airport)
Restaurants:
There are tons of reasonably priced pubs and cafes.
Prague specializes in the coffee house. for something
special:
David's Rstaurant
Trziste 21/611
Tucked away in a back street near Appia. Cozy,
great food.
Mlynec Restaurant
Novotneho Lavka 9
Old Town, Prague 1
(one of several restaurants with a view to Charles
Bridge. Great view and food)
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